Frigidaire Dishwasher Error Codes List: Every Code Explained

Every Frigidaire dishwasher error code we could verify against Frigidaire's own documentation — what it means, what usually causes it, and the first fix to try — in one table. Codes differ between model series, so treat your model's tech sheet as the final word.

How to read and retrieve error codes on Frigidaire dishwashers

Frigidaire dishwashers include a diagnostic/water test cycle (entered by holding specific pad combinations — on many Gallery models, holding Power Scrub/Start combinations; the service data sheet behind the toe-kick gives the exact pair) that fills, washes, heats and drains in a compressed sequence and shows any i-code that the control logs.

The complete Frigidaire dishwasher error code list

How to reset / clear error codes on Frigidaire dishwashers

Frigidaire's i-series codes clear with a power reset: switch the breaker off for at least 5 minutes, restore power, and run a cycle. Leak code i30 is the exception in practice — it will not stay cleared while water remains in the base pan, because the float switch is still physically lifted.

How to diagnose any Frigidaire dishwasher code

Work the problem in this order: (1) record the code exactly, including any flashing tap or salt/rinse-aid symbols shown with it; (2) establish the water story — is there water in the base, is the tub dry, did the cycle stop early or never start — because dishwasher codes split into leak, fill, drain and heating families; (3) run the external checks first: supply tap and inlet hose for fill codes, filters, sump and drain hose for drain codes, and for leak codes, dry the base and watch where water appears on a short test cycle; (4) clear the code and re-run the shortest programme while observing — most dishwasher faults announce themselves in the first ten minutes; (5) replace parts last, in the order the code family suggests. A leak code in particular should never be cleared and ignored: the float that raised it is the only thing between a small leak and a floor.

Frigidaire codes: the i-family and the Er header

Frigidaire dishwashers report in two styles. Current models use the i-family — i10, i20, i30 and their relatives — where the digit after the i names the system (fill, drain, leak/flood). Older and simpler models show Er as a header, and the letters or the key that lights alongside Er carry the actual diagnosis, most often a stuck or shorted key in the touch panel. Treating Er alone as a complete code is the classic Frigidaire search mistake: capture the whole display state, including which key is lit, before you search or call anyone.

The Frigidaire drain chain, in order

Frigidaire drain faults (the i20 family) usually arrive gradually: the fine filter and the sump's glass trap collect debris in a way that strangles drainage over weeks, so the machine sounds different at drain time and leaves the sump dirtier long before it codes. The order that finds it: bottom rack out, filter assembly and glass trap lifted and washed, spray arm checked for anything hanging into the sump, then a timed cancel/drain — a healthy Frigidaire empties decisively, a strangled one trails off. Only after the path is proven clean does the drain pump itself become the suspect.

Status words that are not faults at all

A share of Frigidaire "codes" owners search for are the machine simply talking: cycle-stage and option displays such as a control-lock indicator, a delay-start readout, or a reminder state. These appear on a healthy machine, clear the way the manual describes (usually a button hold or simply starting the cycle), and never point at a part. The tell is behaviour: a dishwasher that runs its cycle normally while showing the word is displaying a state; a dishwasher that stops, drains unprompted, or refuses to start is reporting a fault, and the fault family is named by what the machine was doing — filling, washing, draining or heating — when it stopped.

The most searched Frigidaire dishwasher codes, in detail

ER — 'Er' on a Frigidaire dishwasher = switch failure (shorted keypad). Frigidaire's Service Data Sheet (Electrolux Home Products North America, P/N 808463501) lists display code Er exactly that way, and Electrolux's service manual for these dishwashers defines the underlying fault as a membrane switch failure: the control has verified that a pad on the membrane switch has been closed for one minute.

Er belongs to Frigidaire's letter-code generation. In Frigidaire's Use & Care manuals (FGHD2465, FGHD2461, GLD4355, PLD4050, FFID2421 and others) 'Er' is listed among the malfunction codes the indicator may display — 'Er', 'uF', 'uo' or 'CE' — with the instruction to contact the Frigidaire Customer Care Center; the owner's guides list the code but do not define it. The definition comes from Frigidaire's service documentation, and it is narrower than the 'general panel error' it is often sold as: one specific thing has happened — a keypad pad is being read as closed, and it has stayed closed for a full minute. That one-minute rule is the code's built-in protection against false alarms (a long button press or a leaning object does not trip it instantly), and it is why Er is a hardware report, not a glitch: something is holding a pad down electrically, whether or not any finger is near the panel. Owners often meet Er in the status window alongside the panel's status lights — searches for 'er clean s' describe Er showing with the Clean and Sanitized indicators, which are separate cycle-status lights in the same display area (Frigidaire's service sheet's LED table: Clean = cycle complete, Sanitize = sanitization achieved), not letters belonging to the code. Two details in Frigidaire's documentation separate a real Er diagnosis from the folklore around this code. The first is the threshold: Electrolux's service manual states the failure appears when the control verifies that any pad on the membrane switch has been closed for one minute. The control is not reacting to a glitch, a static zap or a single odd reading — it has watched a pad sit closed, continuously, for sixty seconds, and only then does it declare the membrane switch failed. That is why Er so rarely proves to be a one-off: whatever held that pad closed for a full minute is a physical state of the keypad or its connection, and physical states do not heal between cycles. The second detail is what shares the display with Er. Owners describe 'er clean s' and 'er s' because the status window sits among the machine's indicator lights, and Frigidaire's service sheet gives those lights their own table separate from the display codes: the Clean light reports a completed cycle, the Sanitize light reports that sanitization was achieved, and the Delay light reports a countdown in progress. None of them is part of the Er code, and Er has no letter suffix in Frigidaire's table — the display codes beside it are its siblings (Th for the thermistor, Tu for turbidity, hS for pump rpm, and the Uo/uC/uF vent family). Reading the panel as 'Er, plus whichever status lights happen to be lit' stops owners chasing a combined code that does not exist.

Most likely cause: A shorted membrane pad (the documented fault) — Electrolux's manual names it a membrane switch failure: a pad — typically a high-use one — shorts or sticks so the control reads it as permanently pressed. Once the pad has read closed for one minute, the control declares Er.

First check: Note the behaviour around Er: does it follow use of one particular pad, and does the machine accept phantom input (beeps, lights, responses to no touch)? That pattern identifies the pad zone and confirms you're in keypad territory, not a wash-system fault.

If it keeps coming back: Er returning after a keypad/console replacement has walked Frigidaire's sequence to its end: the wiring between keypad and control, or the main control board itself. An Er that returns immediately at power-up, before any pad is touched, is the strongest form of the report: a pad is reading closed right now, and the hunt narrows to the keypad, whatever is pressing it, and the connection the control reads it through. Treat 'it cleared for a day' with suspicion rather than relief — a membrane that closes intermittently is still closing, and the one-minute rule guarantees it will be caught again.

UO — Vent stuck open

UO belongs to Frigidaire's letter-code generation. In Frigidaire's Use & Care manuals (FGHD2465, FDBB4365, FGBD2445, FPHD2481 and others) 'uo' is listed among the malfunction codes the indicator may display — 'Er', 'uF', 'uo' or 'CE' — with the instruction to contact the Frigidaire Customer Care Center; the owner's guides list the code but do not define it. The definition comes from Frigidaire's service documentation: the vent assembly sits in the top right rear of the tub, its damper must be closed during washing and opens (with the vent fan) for drying, and Frigidaire's Water/Service Test monitors the fan damper at its very first interval, displaying 'uo' when that check fails. So although the vent is a drying-system part, UO itself is a vent-closed failure reported around the wash — an earlier version of this entry wrongly placed the vent in the door and the fault in the dry phase. Frigidaire's Service Data Sheet explains the vent system UO guards. During the dry portion of a cycle, the heater, the solenoid that opens the vent's damper, and the vent fan are energised together: the fan draws cooler, drier outside air into the tub and pushes it downwards, while hot, moist air rises and leaves through a condensing duct near the top of the door, where the water it carries condenses and drains away. The vent assembly itself sits in the top right rear of the tub. The damper therefore has two jobs in one cycle — sealed while water is spraying, open while air is moving — and UO is the report for the first of those jobs failing: the vent has not confirmed closed for washing. That is why a 'drying part' can stop a machine that has barely filled.

Most likely cause: Vent damper stuck or held open — The Service Data Sheet names the monitored device plainly — fan damper. Steam-borne grease and hard-water deposits build up on the damper and its seal until it no longer closes or no longer registers closed.

First check: Note when UO appears: at cycle start or early in the wash is the classic pattern (the damper is the first device monitored in Frigidaire's service test); a code within the first minute is telling the same story.

If it keeps coming back: UO returning after a vent assembly change points to the wiring between the vent and the control, or the control itself — Frigidaire's sequence ends at the main control board. A UO that returns is sorted by its interval. Back at the very next start, with the damper check still failing at the test's first interval, means the closed confirmation still is not reaching the control: wiring that was only visually checked, a replacement assembly not fully seated, or — at the end of Frigidaire's sequence — the control board itself. Back after weeks of clean running is the slower story: deposits rebuilding on a damper that was cleaned rather than replaced, in a vent that processes every cycle's steam. Either way, repeating resets adds nothing; the code is reporting a physical state each time it appears.

i10 — Fill error

i10 is Frigidaire's fill code: the valve opened (or should have) and the level didn't arrive. Supply, the inlet valve and its screen, and the float switch veto are the chain — the same fill trio as every brand, in Frigidaire's i-code dialect. Frigidaire's owner's guides define i10 in the manufacturer's own words: 'A low fill has been detected', with the printed solution 'Look for a pinched water supply line, or water shutoff is not completely opened.' Two things in that short row deserve more attention than they usually get. First, Frigidaire's verb is detected: the machine is reporting a measured shortfall — the fill phase ended with less water than the control expected — not naming a broken part. Both of Frigidaire's printed causes are supply-side conditions, not component failures: a line physically pinched (the classic aftermath of the machine being pushed back into its cabinet run), and a shutoff valve left partly closed (the classic aftermath of under-sink plumbing work, when the valve gets reopened by feel rather than to its stop). Second, i10 sits at the head of the i-code family the same guides print: i20/i40/iF0 for clogged filters or a restricted drain line, i30 for a leak or overflow in the bottom pan, i50 for the drain or wash motor, i60 for the water heating system, iC0 for the electronic control. The family's logic is a chain — fill (i10), drain (i20 group), containment (i30), motors (i50), heat (i60), control (iC0) — and i10 is its first link, which is why Frigidaire's remedy for it is a look under the sink rather than a part.

Most likely cause: Supply off/restricted — Under-sink tap, kinked hose, low pressure.

First check: Tap open; float moves freely; listen for fill at start; screen inspection.

If it keeps coming back: Intermittent i10 tracks a float sticking when greasy, or pressure sag at busy times. i10's returns keep the supply's diary. Returns after any under-sink work are the shutoff or a re-pinched line until proven otherwise — the machine was fine until the cabinet was disturbed. Returns at predictable times of day are the pressure sag, and the fix is scheduling or supply, never the valve. The return that changes the diagnosis is i10 arriving with the line proven straight, the shutoff proven fully open, and the house quiet: that combination acquits Frigidaire's printed causes and promotes the inlet screen, the float switch and the valve itself — the service-level chain from the base entry — from suspects to appointments.

i20 — Drain error

i20 means the drain phase timed out: water is leaving too slowly or not at all. Frigidaire's drain chain is filter → sump → pump → hose → air gap/sink, and the blockage lives in it — the filter and the air gap/sink connection are the statistical leaders, the pump the finisher. Frigidaire's owner's guide is unusually direct about what i20 means, and it groups three displays together: i20, i40, and iF0 all report that clogged filters or a restricted drain line have been detected. Its prescribed checks are specific - clean both filters and the sump area, check for a pinched or blocked drain hose, and, if the drain line is attached to a disposer, check that the knockout plug has been removed. It follows that i20 names a restriction, not a failed part: the pump is only suspected once the path it pushes against is proven clear. The guide's general reset for error codes - pressing Cancel, or switching power off at the breaker for 5 minutes - clears the display and lets the unit restart; it does nothing to the restriction itself, which is why a returning code means walking the drain path in order, from filter to sink.

Most likely cause: Clogged filter — The leading cause — a greasy filter throttles everything.

First check: Clean the filter; clear the air gap; check hose run; pump listen test on cancel/drain.

If it keeps coming back: Quick recurrence = downstream restriction or weakening pump.

i30 — Leak/flood error

i30 is Frigidaire's (Electrolux-platform) flood code: the base float/ sensor found water, so the machine stops filling, often runs the drain pump continuously, and refuses cycles. The water came from a leak, an overfill/suds spill-over, or a spill during install. The base must be dried AND the source found — exactly the Bosch E15 / Samsung LC story in Frigidaire's dialect. Frigidaire's two-word precision — leak OR overflow — is the most useful thing on this page, because it splits i30 into families that share a pan but not a repair. A leak is the machine's water escaping its plumbing: valve connections, seals, hoses. An overflow is water that was correctly inside the wash system escaping its containment: suds climbing the door, a tilted machine sloshing over its own lip, a fill that ran long. The float in the bottom pan cannot tell them apart and was never meant to; it reports water, and the owner's job is deciding which family delivered it. Frigidaire's printed checks quietly encode exactly that split — a connection for the leak family, a level for the overflow family — which is why the manufacturer's modest little table outperforms most of the internet's longer lists for this code.

Most likely cause: A genuine leak — Hoses, sump/pump seals, a spray arm jetting at a split door seal.

First check: Water supply OFF. Pull out, tilt gently — water out of the base confirms it.

If it keeps coming back: Returning i30 = a drip still arriving; watch a full cycle pulled out. An i30 that returns after a genuine dry-out and a connection-and-level pass is a leak keeping a schedule, and the schedule is the clue: every cycle means a pressurised source (the inlet side, wet whenever the valve opens); only on heavy, full cycles suggests a wash-side seal that leaks under full circulation; only after days suggests a seep slow enough to need several cycles to lift the detector. Matching the interval to the likely source before the machine comes out again converts the second leak hunt from a general rummage into a short, timed observation — run the cycle phase the pattern accuses, with a torch, and watch that joint first.

E20 — Platform-rendering variant of the drain fault on some Frigidaire/Electrolux platforms (E20 = drain system in those charts)

In E-format platform charts, E20 is the drain fault: the machine isn't emptying in time. Everything from the i20 page applies — filter, air gap/sink connection, hose, pump — because the hardware being monitored is the same drain chain regardless of the letters on the display.

Most likely cause: Clogged filter — The leader.

First check: Filter clean; air gap clear; pump listen test on drain.

If it keeps coming back: Fast recurrence = downstream restriction or dying pump.

Less common and model-specific codes

Search data shows owners also meet these codes on Frigidaire dishwashers: AE, CO, E1, E10, E2, E4, E40, EU, F1, F30, F4, F8, H5, I1, I4, ICO, OU, U0. They are not part of the core code list Frigidaire publishes for most models — several are series-specific, abbreviated display readings, or codes carried over from a sister platform — so we do not publish meanings for them rather than guess. Treat them by symptom: note what the machine was doing when the code appeared (filling, draining, heating, spinning), run one full power cycle (5 minutes off), and if the code returns, match the symptom to the closest documented family in the table above and check the tech sheet stored inside your machine for the model-specific definition.

Deep-dive guides for the most searched codes

Frequently asked questions

Related guides

Facts on this page were checked against manufacturer documentation: manuals.plus · manuals.plus · manualsfile.com · www.manualshelf.com · www.manualshelf.com · www.manualshelf.com