Samsung Oven & Range Error Codes List: Every Code Explained

Every Samsung oven & range error code we could verify against Samsung's own documentation — what it means, what usually causes it, and the first fix to try — in one table. Codes differ between model series, so treat your model's tech sheet as the final word.

How to read and retrieve error codes on Samsung oven & ranges

Samsung ranges have a diagnostic/service mode on many models (entered with a pad sequence from the service manual) that displays stored error history (the C and E code families) and allows sensor readings (including the oven temperature sensor's live resistance-derived reading) to be checked without disassembly.

The complete Samsung oven & range error code list

How to reset / clear error codes on Samsung oven & ranges

Samsung range codes clear with a power reset: trip the breaker for about 5 minutes (ranges are usually hard-wired or on a 240V outlet behind the unit — the breaker is the safe disconnect), restore power and test a bake cycle. Keypad and sensor codes that return at power-up are active faults the board detects in its start-up self-check.

How to diagnose any Samsung oven & range code

Work the problem in this order: (1) record the code exactly — ranges often show the code only briefly or store it, so write it down before resetting the breaker; (2) note the context: did it appear during preheat, mid-bake, broil, or during/after a self-clean cycle — oven codes split into temperature-sensing, latch/lock, and control families, and self-clean heat is the stress that exposes most of them; (3) let the oven cool fully before judging a latch or sensor fault, because several codes are thermal states, not failures, until the temperature falls; (4) run the external checks: breaker fully reset (both poles on a double breaker), the oven sensor probe visibly intact and not touching the cavity wall, the door closing and latching evenly; (5) test the temperature sensor before the control board — sensors drift and fail far more often than boards, and an oven that consistently runs hot or cold with no code is describing the same component. Do not run self-clean again on an oven that coded during one until the cause is found.

The most searched Samsung oven & range codes, in detail

E08 — Oven heating error

An earlier version of this entry claimed E08 appears in none of Samsung's standard published oven lists and has no published definition. That is wrong, and Samsung's own manuals disprove it. The troubleshooting section of Samsung's FE-R500WW user manual handles the presentation 'The oven control beeps and displays an F error code' with a CODE/CAUSE table that reads, in order: '-SE- Shorted key; E-27 Oven sensor opened; E-28 Oven sensor shorted; E-08 Oven heating error; E-0A Oven heating over; E-0E Door locking error.' Samsung's FE-N500WX manual prints the same table with the same E-08 line, adding its communication codes (E-54, E-55, E-56) after it, and the NE594R0ABSR and NE597R0ABSR manuals carry the table in the same form. Four Samsung manuals, one definition: E-08 is the oven heating error. Why, then, is the code missing from the Samsung oven lists most people find first? Because Samsung changed code families between generations. Its current oven information-code pages list the newer C-family (C-d0, C-d1, C-20, C-21, C-22, C-F0, C-F2) and say plainly that if a code is not listed there, you should find the manual for the specific model, and that codes may differ depending on the model. E-08 belongs to the E-table generation of Samsung electric ranges; a current web list that omits it is describing newer ranges, not declaring the code undefined. Two cautions follow from the table itself, and both matter because third-party sites get them wrong. First, E-08 is not a sensor code in Samsung's documentation: the table already has sensor codes, E-27 for a sensor that is open and E-28 for a sensor that is shorted, so a page that defines E-08 as a shorted or failed temperature sensor is contradicting the manual it claims to summarise. Second, no resistance figure belongs on this page: Samsung's manuals publish no ohm value for E-08 (or for E-27/E-28) in these tables, and the precise figure repeated across third-party sites appears in no Samsung manual checked — per this site's standing rule it is not asserted here. What Samsung does publish for E-08 is a complete owner procedure, and it is short: press the CLEAR/OFF pad and restart the oven; if the problem persists, disconnect all power to the range for at least 30 seconds and then reconnect the power; if this does not solve the problem, call for service. Everything honest about fixing E-08 at owner level is in those three steps. (Corrected 2026-10-28.)

Most likely cause: The oven failing to heat when it is run — This is the code's whole definition in Samsung's table — 'Oven heating error' — and Samsung takes it no further at owner level: the table names no element, no relay and no board for E-08. The honest reading is that the control called for heat and the oven did not heat as it should; which link in the heating chain failed is a service diagnosis on the specific model, not something the code itself announces.

First check: Photograph the display before touching anything, and read every character: in Samsung's table, E-08 (heating error), E-0A (heating over — the opposite condition) and E-0E (door locking error) differ by one character each, and E-28 is the sensor-shorted code that E-08 is most often confused with in print. The exact characters decide which row of Samsung's table you are in.

If it keeps coming back: An E-08 that keeps coming back is following the manual's routing exactly: each return after the full CLEAR/OFF and power-disconnect sequence re-confirms that the oven's heating failure is persistent rather than transient. Record the pattern across two or three events — bake versus broil, immediate versus part-way through, any heat produced at all — together with the model number, and hand the record to the technician. What not to do is escalate the resets (longer disconnects, repeated cycles) in place of the call: Samsung gives this code exactly two owner steps, and both have already been done.

OE — Not a Samsung oven code as printed

This page exists because of a genuinely confusing display, so it is worth separating the two readings cleanly. Reading one: E-0E. In the troubleshooting table of Samsung's FE-R500WW user manual — the table headed 'The oven control beeps and displays an F error code' — the rows run '-SE- Shorted key; E-27 Oven sensor opened; E-28 Oven sensor shorted; E-08 Oven heating error; E-0A Oven heating over; E-0E Door locking error', and Samsung's FE-N500WX manual prints the same table with the same E-0E row. A later Samsung generation keeps the code: the NE58H9950WS and NE58F9710WS manuals list 'E-0E Door locking error' in their tables (there among E-21 oven sensor opened, E-22 oven sensor shorted, E-24 oven heating over and E-2E temp probe error). Two generations of Samsung range manuals therefore define E-0E the same way, and they give it the same handling as the rest of their tables: press CLEAR/OFF (the NE58 manuals say OVEN OFF) and restart the oven; if the problem persists, disconnect all power to the range for at least 30 seconds and then reconnect; if that does not solve the problem, call for service. The code concerns the oven's door lock — the motorised latch that locks the oven door, the system Samsung's newer manuals report on under their door-lock code C-d1 ('door lock malfunctions'; the NE63 manual words it 'the door lock is misaligned'). An oven reporting E-0E is reporting that its door locking has errored: the lock did not complete what it was asked to do. Reading two: a bare OE, letter O followed by letter E, with no leading E- and no zero. That code does not exist in Samsung's oven documentation — not in the E-tables above, and not in Samsung's current oven information-code list, which runs through C-d0, S-01, dC/dE, C-d1 and the C-20/C-21/C-22 sensor group with no OE entry. Where Samsung does publish the OE spelling is the dishwasher: Samsung US's dishwasher page lists 'OC, 0C, oE — Over-level water error'. An earlier version of this entry said only that OE is not an oven code and left the reader there; that was incomplete, because it never mentioned E-0E — the real Samsung oven code that the search phrases ('samsung oven error code e oe') are plainly reaching for, one mis-read zero away. This entry corrects that: work E-0E if that is what your display shows, and treat a genuinely bare OE as a display to re-read, not a fault to repair. (Clarification corrected 2026-10-28.)

Most likely cause: The door lock failing to lock or unlock as commanded (E-0E, the real code) — This is what Samsung's one-line definition reports: 'Door locking error'. The ranges in these tables lock their oven door with a motorised latch, and the control supervises that lock; a locking cycle the latch does not complete — in either direction — is the event the code records. Samsung's manuals name no sub-cause for it at owner level, and the neighbouring generation's door-lock code is worded as a position problem (C-d1: the door lock is misaligned, mispositioned in another manual's wording), which is the same system reporting the same kind of failure.

First check: Photograph the display in good light and read it character by character, ideally zoomed: is it E-0E (E, zero, E), or genuinely OE with no leading E? Samsung's tables give E-0E a meaning and give OE none, so this single observation decides whether you have a door-lock fault or a display to re-read. Segmented displays make 0 and O near-twins; the photo, not memory, is the evidence.

If it keeps coming back: An E-0E that returns after the full reset sequence is reporting a lock that still cannot complete or confirm its travel — most often, in the manuals' framing, a lock whose position is wrong (the misalignment Samsung names for the same system under C-d1). Record the pattern: does it return when locking, when unlocking, or at power-up? Does the door physically lock when it should? That record, with the model number and a photograph of the exact display, is what turns a service visit from a search into a confirmation. Do not keep power-cycling a returning E-0E in place of the call — the manuals give the code two owner steps, and repetition is not a third.

SE — Keypad short / touch panel error

On Samsung ovens and ranges SE is the well-known 'shorted keypad' code: the control detects a key that appears permanently pressed — a short in the touch membrane or a failing control board input. The oven usually beeps, may accept phantom inputs, and locks out cooking for safety. It is the oven equivalent of a stuck button. Samsung's manuals give the owner exactly one procedure for it (CLEAR/OFF, then a full power disconnect) before service. -SE- belongs to a generation of Samsung ranges whose manuals organised their faults as function error codes: the control beeps, displays a code, and the troubleshooting table names its cause. In that company — oven sensor opened, oven sensor shorted, oven heating error, door locking error — -SE- is the panel's entry: shorted key. Two consequences flow from that heritage. First, the remedy is entirely procedural, printed identically in manual after manual: CLEAR/OFF and restart, then a full power disconnection of at least 30 seconds, then service. There are no owner measurements attached to this code anywhere in Samsung's documentation, and none should be invented for it. Second, the code has a modern descendant rather than a modern presence: Samsung's current oven information-code pages list a button problem as C-d0, with surface-oriented remedies, and do not list SE at all. An owner of a newer Samsung oven who believes they saw SE has usually misread a display, while an owner of an earlier range with -SE- on screen has one of the most precisely documented small faults Samsung ever printed.

Most likely cause: Membrane keypad wear — The most-used keys short internally with age and heat cycles — the cause Samsung's 'shorted key' definition points at.

First check: Press CLEAR/OFF and restart the oven — Samsung's documented first step for SE.

If it keeps coming back: SE that returns after the full power reset, increasingly quickly, is a dying membrane: the short is becoming permanent. Replace the panel rather than living on resets. The pattern of an -SE- that returns is what separates its two underlying stories. A code that clears on CLEAR/OFF or on the 30-second disconnection and stays away for months was most likely a control that latched onto a transient input state — the manuals provide the restart remedy precisely because that case exists and is common enough to print first. A code that returns within days, then within hours, then greets you already displayed in the morning, is the short becoming permanent: the key position is failing progressively, and each restart buys less time than the last. That shortening interval is worth recording: it is your signal to stop relying on resets, since a panel that can phantom-press one key can eventually phantom-press a cooking function.

AP — Access Point mode

AP on a Samsung oven display means the appliance has entered Wi-Fi Access Point mode for smart setup: it is broadcasting its temporary setup network so the SmartThings app can find and register it. It appears after pressing the Smart Control / Wi-Fi setup button (or during first-time setup) and is a normal state, not a fault. The oven's cooking functions are unaffected; AP simply times out or completes when pairing finishes.

Most likely cause: Wi-Fi setup was started — Someone pressed the Smart Control/setup control, or the oven is new and awaiting registration.

First check: If you were setting up SmartThings: continue in the app — select the appliance network if asked and finish registration.

If it keeps coming back: AP repeatedly appearing on its own points to a panel button issue rather than Wi-Fi — treat it as a panel problem only if it recurs uninvited.

Bad Line — Power cord installed improperly

Samsung documents Bad Line in two places in its range manuals, and the two wordings agree exactly. In the information-codes table of the NE63A6511SS user manual, the row reads: 'bAd LinE — This error message appears if the power cord is installed improperly. If the power connection is plugged in improperly, "bAd LinE" appears on the display. Reconnect the power connection properly, and the message disappears.' In the installation instructions of the NE58K9850WS manual, Samsung prints the same condition as an installer's note: if the power connection is plugged in improperly, LCD and PMOLED displays show 'Wire installation fail' while LED displays show 'bAd LinE' — reconnect the power connection properly, and the message disappears. That is the whole of Samsung's published definition, and this page stays inside it. An earlier version of this entry went further, describing unstable incoming power, a missing leg of the supply, voltage sag and utility faults; Samsung publishes none of those for this message, and they have been removed. What Samsung's wording does settle is the shape of the fault. The defendant is the connection — the cord as installed at the range and its plug/receptacle connection — not the house supply in general and not any part inside the oven. The context matters too: Samsung places the message in its installation instructions, which is why owners almost always meet Bad Line at first power-up after an installation, a move or a reconnection, rather than in the middle of ordinary cooking on a range that has worked for years. It also settles the remedy's shape: there is no part to order and no code to clear, because reconnecting the connection properly is itself the fix, and the manual says the message disappears when that is done. One more boundary from the same manual table is worth knowing: Bad Line sits alongside the range's genuine fault codes (C-d0 for a short in the control key, C-d1 for a misaligned door lock, C-F2 for interrupted Main-to-Touch communication, the C-20/C-21 sensor rows and the C-30/C-31 PCB-sensor rows), and unlike those rows it is given no OFF/CLEAR-and-restart procedure and no 'call for service' endpoint in its own row — Samsung treats it purely as a connection to be remade. (Narrowed to Samsung's documented definition 2026-10-28.)

Most likely cause: The power cord installed improperly at the range — Samsung's information-code wording, verbatim in sense: the message appears if the power cord is installed improperly. The cord on these ranges is connected at installation — it is not a factory-sealed part of the appliance — so an installation error at that connection is the documented first cause, and a range showing Bad Line at its first power-up is this cause until proven otherwise.

First check: Read the display against your range type before anything else: LED-display models show 'bAd LinE'; LCD/PMOLED models show 'Wire installation fail' for the identical condition (Samsung NE58K9850WS installation note). Photograph the display — if you describe the fault to an installer or to Samsung support, the exact wording identifies the condition immediately.

If it keeps coming back: Bad Line that returns after the connection has been remade properly means the report is still true or the connection is not staying made — either way it is connection work, repeated: have an electrician remake and prove the connection rather than cycling the breaker. Treat any sign of heat damage at the plug, receptacle or terminal block (discoloration, a burnt smell, a plug too hot to touch) as a stop condition: breaker off, range unused, electrician promptly — a deteriorating high-current connection is a fire-risk pattern, not an inconvenience to live with.

C-21 — The oven is overheating

Samsung's range manuals state the condition plainly: 'C-21 — the oven is overheating' (electric-range wording: the code occurs 'if the internal temperature rises abnormally high'). That leaves two families of cause: the cavity genuinely overheated (a blocked vent — the C-24 condition — or a heating control fault), or the sensing chain reported heat that was not there. Samsung's own service manuals troubleshoot C-21 at the sensor first: disconnect power, disconnect the sensor harness from the control, and measure the sensor's resistance — Samsung's published reference is 1080Ω at room temperature, and an abnormal reading means replacing the sensor. An earlier version of this entry framed C-21 purely as a sensor-circuit fault; Samsung's manuals define the overheating condition first, with the sensor as the documented first check.

Most likely cause: Temperature sensor drift/failure — Samsung's service procedure for C-21 tests the sensor first: a heat-aged sensor misreports the cavity temperature and the control reads it as overheating.

First check: Judge the heat independently: was the cavity genuinely far hotter than set (independent oven thermometer, food burnt out of proportion)? Real heat and reported heat split the diagnosis.

If it keeps coming back: C-21 returning with a proven sensor and a clear vent = board input or heating-control fault — technician territory.

Less common and model-specific codes

Search data shows owners also meet these codes on Samsung oven & ranges: 0A, 0E, E03, F0, F11, F2, F9, OA. They are not part of the core code list Samsung publishes for most models — several are series-specific, abbreviated display readings, or codes carried over from a sister platform — so we do not publish meanings for them rather than guess. Treat them by symptom: note what the machine was doing when the code appeared (filling, draining, heating, spinning), run one full power cycle (5 minutes off), and if the code returns, match the symptom to the closest documented family in the table above and check the tech sheet stored inside your machine for the model-specific definition.

Deep-dive guides for the most searched codes

Related guides

Facts on this page were checked against manufacturer documentation: www.samsung.com · www.samsung.com · www.manualsdir.com · www.manualshelf.com · www.manualshelf.com · mans.io